CONQUEST
OF SOUTH BALI
In
Bali, things continued in a state of turmoil. The allied states
of Badung, Klungkung, and Bangli united to make war on Gianyar.
In 1900 the powerful prince of Ubud, Tjokorde Gede, influenced
the Dewa Manggis, Radja of,Gianyar, to ask for help from the Dutch
Government. An army was sent immediately to protect Gianyar, which
was automatically annexed by the Dutch.
In
May of 1904 the small Chinese steamer Sri Koemala, coming from
Borneo, was wrecked and looted in Sanur, on the south coast of
Bali. The owners held the Dutch Government responsible and demanded
three thousand silver dollars' damages and
the punishment of those culpable. Official embassies were Sent
to obtain the amount from the Radja of Badung, Anak Agung Made,
who refused. The dickering went on for two years, but finally
the Dutch, angered because the prince could not be made
to pay, ordered the closing of Badung to all exports and imports
and asked the co-operation of the bordering states. All of the
independent princes refused to close their frontiers. That was
the beginning of the struggle for supremacy between the Dutch
and
the Balinese Radjas. The people themselves were, for the most
part, indifferent. To them the victory of one side or the other
meant chiefly a change of masters, somebody else to whom to pay
taxes.
In
the fall of 1906 the Radja definitely refused to meet the demands
and on the 15th of September a large military expedition landed
in Sanur, only three miles from Den Pasar, the capital of Badung.
Here the people remained indifferent to the presence of the soldiers,
because, being under the influence of the peace loving Brahmanas,
they were unconcerned with the troubles of the Raja. But at dawn
of the following day an army of Balinese with golden spears, coming
from Denpasar, made a surprise attack. The fighting went on all
day; a few Dutch soldiers were wounded, but hundreds of Balinese
were killed in the unequal fight, and by evening the Balinese
were forced to retreat. The Dutch remained in Sanur for a few
days, occasionally giving concerts for the Balinese, ironically
playing the Sourire d'amour. on their brass band. When the advance
on Denpasar was started, the army was opposed all the way, but
when they came to the palace of Kesiman, just outside the town,
they found it deserted. There the acting ruler had been killed
by a priest in an argument over whether they should oppose the
Dutch. It is curious that inside the palace they found two bronze
cannon that had belonged to Napoleon, bearing the date 1813 and
the Napoleonic "N," together with a number of muskets
from 1620.
Early
on the morning of September 20 the navy bombarded Denpasar, shells
falling on the palace and the houses of other princes, setting
them on fire. This caused the civilian population to flee, leaving
the Radja with only about two thousand men. Soon after the bombardment
the army was reported near Denpasar; the Radja expected that the
attack would be directed against the main entrance of the palace
on the south side, as their military law would require, but unexpectedly
the army turned and made for the north. Inside, the household
bad been worked up to a state of frenzy, almost a trance; everything
of value was destroyed and the palace was set on fire. The king,
seeing his cause lost, told his followers that to defend the palace
was hopeless, but anyone who wished could folldw him into a puputan,
a " fight to the end."
The
only honorable thing left for him was to die a dignified death,
rather than be exiled like the Radja of Lombok, to die away from
Bali, and without the proper rituals of cremation. In a moment
the Radia, his Pungawas, his generals. and all his relatives,
men and women, were ready, dressed in their best and wearing their
finest gold krisses. The women were even more enthusiastic than
the men; they were dressed in men's clothes, short white loincloths
caught between the legs, covered with jewellery, and with their
hair loose. They carried krisses and spears broken in half to
be used more effectively at close range. At nine in the morning
the fantastic procession left the palace, with the Radja at the
head, carried on the shoulders of one of his men, protected by
his gold umbrellas of state, staring intently at the road in front
of him, and clutching in his right hand his kris of gold and diamonds.
He was followed by silent men and entranced women, and even boys
joined the procession, armed with spears and krisses. They marched
on through what is today the main avenue of Den Pasar towards
Kesiman, and when they turned the comer, the Dutch regiment was
only three hundred yards away.
The
commander, astonished at the sight of the strange procession,
gave orders to halt; Balinese interpreters from Buleleng spoke
to the Radja and his followers, begging them anxiously to stop,
but they only walked faster. They came within one hundred feet,
then seventy feet, then made a mad rush at the soldiers, waving
their krisses and spears. The soldiers fired the first volley
and a few fell, the Radja among them. Frenzied men and women continued
to attack, and the soldiers, to avoid being killed, were obliged
to fire continually. Someone went among the fallen people with
a kris killing the wounded. He was shot down, but immediately
another man took his place; he was shot, but an old woman took
the kriss and continued the bloody task. The wives of the Radja
stabbed themselves over his body, which lay buried under the corpses
of the princes and princesses who had dragged them selves over
to die upon the body of their king. When the horrified soldiers
stopped firing, the women threw handfuls of gold coins, yelling
that it was payment for killing them; and if the liberating bullet
did not come soon enough, the maddened women stabbed themselves.
When they had nearly all been killed, a new group approached,
led by the Radja's brother, a twelve-year-old boy who could hardly
carry his spear. The interpreters again tried to stop them, but
were ignored, and they were all shot down.
The
way to the burning palace was now free, except for the hundreds
of corpses that covered the road. Everywhere lay broken spears
and krisses with gold handles studded with enormous diamonds and
rubies in pools of blood. On the side of the Dutch there was only
one man killed, a, sergeant stabbed by a woman.
In
the afternoon of the same day the army attacked the palace of
the neighboring Radja of Pemecutan, but the Balinese met them
with artillery fire that caused some losses among the Dutch. Near
the palace another puputan took place: the insane old Radia, dressed
in yellow silks and carried in a gold sedan chair, followed by
his wives and Pungawas, went out to meet the army after setting
the palace on fire. Soon all were killed. When the palace was
taken, the last obstacle to the conquest of Badung, the tired
soldiers returned to Denpasar, but their victory tasted of a terrible
moral defeat.
The people returned to their houses. All night long, hurried wholesale
cremations were held while the Dutch buried their dead. The next
morning a young Pungawa came to see the commander. He said he
had been away the day before and had missed being killed with
the rest, so be asked to be shot by the soldiers. When he was
refused, be drew his kris and stabbed himself before he could
be prevented. The Balinese then gave up their arms.
A
few days later Gusti Ngurah Agung, the Radja of Tabanan, came
with his son to speak to the Resident. He had changed his gold
umbrella for a green one in sign of submission. He wanted to surrender
on condition that he be allowed to retain his title and have the
same rights as the Radja of Gianyar and Karangasem; Resident Liefrink
replied coldly that he must be deported from Bali until an answer
to his request came from the Government He would be held in the
palace for the night and on the next day would embark for Lombok.
Next morning both the Radja and his son were found dead; the son
was poisoned, supposedly, by an overdose of opium, and the old
Radja had cut his throat with a blunt sirih knife. Thus the state
of Tabanan fell to the, Dutch.
Two
years later the Dewa Agung of Klungkung remained the, only independent
Radja, but be was " insolent," and the stori of Lombok,
Denpasar, and Pemetjutan were repeated; an armed force was sent
to punish him and another great puputan t place in the main avenue
of Klungkung; the highest Radja Bali was killed, with his whole
family.
Two
of the women who survived the Denpasar puputan sisters of the
Radja, were aunts of Gusti Oka, the young prince in whose house
we lived. They are now white-haired old ladies but they remember
every detail of the struggle and one s 0 me two bullet wounds
in her side. Gusti was only two years at the time and he was rushed
to another village with his litle cousin, the present Regent of
Badung, but Gusti's father killed and his house destroyed. Another
relative of the Raja who survived the massacre told us she fainted
when she was cut in the face by the spear of a falling man. All
she remembers was " the cool hissing of the bullets "
in her ears; she added:" like music. "
The
army remained in Bali until
1914, when it was considered that Balinese resistance was sufficiently
controlled, and the army was replaced by a police force. The Dutch
then reorganized the Government of the island along the lines
it had under the Radjas; those who bad been favorable to the Dutch,
their allies in Gianyar and Karangasem, were allowed to retain
their autocratic rights over the people of their districts and
were given certain supremacy over other ruling princes, mostly
the descendants of the former Radjas. They were made puppet regents,
responsible to the Government for the behaviour of their subjects
and for the payment of taxes, which they collect through relatives
whom they appoint as chiefs, pungawa, of the districts under their
control. Each regent is, however, supervised by a Dutch Controller,
who is supposed to act as his " elder brother " and
whose orders are called recommendations.